Via Francigena in Tuscany: the medieval pilgrims' road

The Via Francigena is one of Europe’s great historic routes: the road walked by medieval pilgrims from Canterbury to Rome, through France, Switzerland and Italy. The Italian stretch crosses Piedmont, Lombardy, Liguria and Tuscany before descending towards Rome.

The Tuscan section is considered one of the most beautiful: varied landscapes, medieval villages, Romanesque parish churches, the Sienese crete. And Poggibonsi lies exactly along the route.

In 990, Archbishop Sigeric of Canterbury walked this road from Rome, noting each stage. A thousand years later, Poggibonsi is still on the route - and still welcomes travellers as it did in the Middle Ages.

The Via Francigena: history of the pilgrims’ road

The Via Francigena takes its name from the fact that it was the “road that came from France” - the route that northern European pilgrims took as they descended towards Rome, crossing the Alps and then Italy.

The most famous documentation is that of Archbishop Sigeric of Canterbury, who in 990 walked the road from Rome to Canterbury, recording every stage. His travel diary has become the basis for the reconstruction of the modern route.

In the Middle Ages, the Via Francigena was one of the most heavily travelled roads in Europe. Pilgrims, merchants, diplomats and armies used it constantly. The towns along the route, such as Poggibonsi, developed precisely because of this traffic, offering lodging, food and care to travellers.

The Tuscan stretch: from Lucca to Siena

The Tuscan section of the Via Francigena enters the region from Liguria or the Passo della Cisa, crosses the Pisan plain and the Valdinievole, then climbs towards Lucca - one of the most important stages of the route.

From Lucca, the path descends towards the Valdelsa, crosses San Miniato, Gambassi Terme, and arrives in the Val d’Elsa, the territory that includes Poggibonsi.

From Poggibonsi heading south, the route descends towards Siena, crossing hills and Romanesque churches. The Poggibonsi-Siena stretch (about 35 km) is one of the most beautiful on the Tuscan route.

Stages in the Val d’Elsa: Poggibonsi is on the route

The stretch of the Via Francigena crossing the Val d’Elsa passes through:

• Gambassi Terme: a small thermal village with the Pieve di Chianni, one of the finest Romanesque churches in Tuscany
• San Gimignano: the route passes beneath the medieval towers, which pilgrims in the Middle Ages saw exactly as we see them today
• Poggibonsi: the town was an important stop for pilgrims, with hospitals and welcome facilities. The Via Francigena passes through the centre of Poggibonsi
• Monteriggioni: the circular walls were visible from afar, a landmark for those walking the road
• Siena: the great stage of southern Tuscany

How to walk the Via Francigena: preparation and logistics

The Via Francigena does not require technical mountaineering equipment, but it does require adequate preparation for multi-day trekking:

Equipment: waterproof trekking shoes (not trainers), 40-50 litre backpack, layered clothing, waterproof jacket, hat, sunscreen, trekking poles (optional but useful on descents).

Pilgrim’s credential: the document stamped at each stage, available from Via Francigena associations or certain points along the route. It gives access to pilgrim hostels and, in Rome, the completion certificate.

Accommodation: pilgrim hostels, agriturismi and B&Bs are found along the route. Advance booking is recommended in high season (April-September).

Season: April-June and September-October are the best periods. Summer is hot and dry, making walking strenuous. Winter is rainy.

Walking just one section: options from Poggibonsi

Those who do not want to complete the full route can walk just one stage or part of a stage from Poggibonsi.

Poggibonsi-San Gimignano (12 km, about 3 hours): walkable even by those not in peak fitness, crossing hills with vineyards and olive groves. The endpoint - the towers of San Gimignano - is one of the most rewarding on the route.

Poggibonsi-Monteriggioni (20 km, about 5-6 hours): longer, requiring good physical condition. The landscape is varied - Val d’Elsa, climbs through woodland, descent towards the Sienese plain.

You can walk one way and return by bus, or arrange the logistics with the hotel.

Sleeping along the Via Francigena

Hotel Alcide in Poggibonsi welcomes Via Francigena pilgrims. It is a comfortable hotel, not a hostel - but for those wanting to rest properly after days of walking, the difference is significant.

Since 1849, the Ancillotti family’s property has welcomed travellers of every kind. The modern pilgrims of the Via Francigena are the direct heirs of the medieval pilgrims that Poggibonsi has always received.