Siena is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe, and one of the most misunderstood. Visitors often spend a few hours, tick the piazza and the Duomo, and move on. Those who stay longer discover a city with extraordinary depth, in its art, its urban structure, and in the living social organisation of the contrade.
Siena was conquered by Florence in 1555, and that defeat preserved it: the Medici had no interest in developing a city they’d just won. The 14th-century streets, palaces and churches survive largely untouched. One of history’s finest unintended acts of conservation.
Siena: why it is different from every other Italian city
The difference starts with the history. Siena was Florence’s great rival in the medieval period. In 1555, it was conquered by the Florentines with Spanish military support, and passed under Medici control. The Medici had little interest in developing their conquered city, which meant that Siena’s medieval fabric was essentially frozen, not modernised.
The consequence for the visitor today is a city centre of extraordinary integrity. The 14th-century streets, palaces and churches survive largely as they were built. There are no Renaissance additions from wealthy patrons trying to update the medieval core. There is no industrial waterfront. The city on the three hills looks, from within, much as it did in the 1300s.
Piazza del Campo: how to experience it properly
Piazza del Campo is, by almost universal consensus, one of the finest urban spaces in the world. Its distinctive shape, a curved shell, tilted toward the centre, divided into nine segments by lines of pale stone, makes it immediately recognisable.
The piazza was designed in the 1340s by the republican government of Siena, the Council of Nine, hence the nine segments. The deliberate inward tilt creates an intimate concave space that pulls the visitor toward its centre.
The Palazzo Pubblico and its Torre del Mangia close the piazza at the southern end. The tower is 88 metres tall and can be climbed (400 steps) for views over the city and surrounding countryside that are genuinely among the best in Tuscany.
How to experience it properly: arrive before 9am, when the piazza belongs to the city rather than the tourists. Sit on the brick surface (it is the tradition, everyone sits here). Watch how people move through the space, how it functions as a living room for the city, not just a photographic backdrop.
The Duomo: what not to miss inside
The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta has a facade of extraordinary marble complexity, but the interior exceeds even the exterior in richness.
The marble inlaid floor: the entire floor of the Duomo is covered in 56 panels of marble intarsia, depicting biblical and allegorical scenes, created by dozens of artists over four centuries. It is the largest and most complex intarsia floor in the world. Parts are covered to protect them, always worth checking which sections are visible during your visit.
The Piccolomini Library: a room commissioned by Pope Pius III (nephew of Pius II) and painted entirely by Pinturicchio with scenes from the life of Pius II. The colours are extraordinary, vivid and fresh despite being 500 years old.
The Crypt: rediscovered during restoration work in 1999 and opened to the public shortly after. Contains 13th-century frescoes of exceptional quality in good state of preservation, among the finest Early Gothic painting in Italy.
The Baptistery of San Giovanni: in the lower level below the Duomo, with a 15th-century marble baptismal font by Jacopo della Quercia, Donatello, Lorenzo Ghiberti and others. Often overlooked.
The Palio: dates, contrade and how to see it
The Palio di Siena is a bareback horse race run around Piazza del Campo twice a year: 2 July (Palio di Provenzano) and 16 August (Palio dell’Assunta). The race itself lasts about 90 seconds.
The race is the culminating moment of months of negotiation, alliance-building and political maneuvering between the city’s 17 contrade (districts). Each contrada has its own animal symbol, colour, church and museum, and belongs to a network of historical alliances and enmities with the other districts.
Watching the race: standing space in the piazza is free but requires arriving many hours before the race and staying on your feet in the heat. Seats in the windows and balconies of the surrounding palaces can be purchased but are expensive (€200-2000 depending on position) and sell out months in advance.
The pre-race period: the three days before each Palio include public events, the assignment of horses by lottery, three trial races, the historic parade. These are often more accessible than the race itself.
Practical tips: getting there, parking and day trips
By car: Siena is 25 km from Poggibonsi, 30 minutes drive. Park in one of the external car parks (Parcheggio il Campo or Fontebranda are well-positioned) and take the escalators or walk to the historic centre. The entire old town is ZTL (restricted traffic zone).
By train: Poggibonsi station to Siena station takes 25-30 minutes. Trains run approximately every 60-90 minutes. From Siena station (outside the historic centre), take a local bus or walk 20 minutes uphill.
By bus: regional Tiemme buses run directly from Poggibonsi to the centre of Siena. Journey time about 45 minutes.
Siena from Hotel Alcide: 25 km, 30 minutes
Hotel Alcide’s position in Poggibonsi makes Siena an easy day trip, or even a half-day trip if you focus on two or three key sights. The train is particularly convenient: arrive at the hotel, take the 10-minute walk to Poggibonsi station, and you’re in Siena in half an hour.
Planning a trip to Tuscany?
Hotel Alcide is in Poggibonsi, in the heart of the Val d’Elsa.
25 km from Siena, 12 from San Gimignano, in the heart of Chianti.
The Ancillotti family has welcomed guests here since 1849.
