Saturnia: everything you need to know before you go

Saturnia has a reputation problem. Not in the negative sense: the problem is that it has become so famous it has lost some of the wild spontaneity that made it special. But if you know how to get there, when and how, it remains an experience that is hard to forget.

This guide is not aimed at those looking for perfect Instagram shots. It is for those who want to truly understand what to find at Saturnia, how to get there, when to go and what to expect.

In winter, with steam rising from the pools and almost no one around, Saturnia is something completely different. Not a crowded beach with hot water, but a remote place where time seems to stand still.

Saturnia: the two experiences (free waterfalls vs spa establishment)

When people talk about Saturnia, they are actually referring to two very different experiences:

The Gorello Waterfalls, also called Mulino di Saturnia, are the white travertine terraces where the thermal water flows freely and collects in natural pools. Access is completely free. There are no facilities: no changing rooms, no bar, no hot showers. You arrive, get changed, immerse yourself. That is it.

The Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort is a high-end hotel using the same thermal water but in a completely different context: equipped pools, treatments, restaurants, rooms. The entrance fee for just the thermal pool is around €30-35 per person and can vary.

Many visitors arrive expecting only the free waterfalls and are slightly taken aback by the presence of the establishment next door. The two options coexist, a short distance apart.

How to get to Saturnia from Poggibonsi

From Poggibonsi, the most comfortable route is:

• SS2 Via Cassia towards Siena
• Bypass Siena and continue towards Buonconvento
• From Buonconvento, follow signs for Montalcino or Arcidosso, then descend towards the Maremma
• The village of Saturnia is in the municipality of Manciano, province of Grosseto

The distance is about 110-115 kilometres and takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes. The roads are mostly normal flowing roads, not motorways. The scenery along the way - the Sienese crete, the Val d’Orcia, Monte Amiata - is itself a reason to make the journey.

There is no convenient direct train or bus connection for tourists. For Saturnia, a car is practically essential.

When to go: seasons, times and crowds

The honest answer: avoid July and August, especially weekends.

In high season, the Saturnia waterfalls fill up to the point of becoming unpleasant. The car park is full by 9-10am. The pools fill with tourists. The thermal water remains wonderful, but the experience becomes a crowded beach with hot water.

The best times are:

• October-November: the leaves change colour, the steam on the waterfalls creates beautiful scenes, the crowds are minimal
• December-February: very few visitors, cold outside but hot water - the most authentic experience
• March-April: the awakening of nature, pleasant temperatures, moderate crowds
• May-June: still acceptable, better on weekdays

The best time in any season is early morning, before 9am. In the afternoon crowds grow, especially in summer.

Parking: the most complicated logistics

Anyone who has been to Saturnia in season knows that parking is the real logistical challenge. There are two main car parks near the waterfalls - one free and one paid - and they both fill up very quickly.

Practical advice:

• Arrive before 9am in high season
• Consider parking further away and walking the last stretch (about 500m-1km)
• In low season, the problem is almost non-existent
• Do not leave valuables in the car: the area, being open and unguarded, is sometimes targeted by thieves

The free waterfalls: what to really expect

The Gorello Waterfalls are a series of natural travertine terraces over which thermal water flows at a constant temperature of about 37.5°C. The largest pools are at the bottom; going up, you find progressively smaller and often hotter pools.

What you will find: sulphurous water with a mild sulphur smell (unpleasant at first, you get used to it), a slippery bottom requiring care, pools of varying depth from 30 centimetres to over a metre and a half.

What you will NOT find: toilets, showers, changing rooms, cloakroom, bar, any facilities whatsoever. Bring everything from home: towel, water shoes, bag for clothes.

The white travertine colour stains swimwear and skin in a washable way, but it is good to know this in advance.

The spa establishment: when it is worth it

The Terme di Saturnia spa offers a large, well-equipped thermal pool with sun loungers, bar, showers and changing rooms. The water is the same as at the free waterfalls.

It is worth considering when:

• Travelling with young children (safer and with facilities)
• Wanting to combine the thermal experience with spa treatments
• Wanting a more comfortable experience without the high-season waterfall crowds (the establishment has controlled capacity)
• Staying in the establishment’s hotel

The entrance fee is significant compared to the free waterfalls, but the service justifies the price for many.

Where to eat near Saturnia

The village of Saturnia has a few restaurants and trattorias. The best options are often small, with local Maremma cuisine: wild boar, beans all’uccelletto, pecorino, local wine.

The village of Pitigliano, about 20 kilometres away, is one of the most beautiful destinations in the Tuscan Maremma - built on a tufa cliff - and has a wider choice of restaurants. Combining Saturnia in the morning with Pitigliano in the afternoon is an excellent idea for a full day.

Those departing from Hotel Alcide in Poggibonsi can consider stopping along the Via Cassia for lunch at a country trattoria between Siena and the Maremma: quality is often high and prices reasonable.