San Gimignano is 12 kilometres from Poggibonsi. By car, that is 15 minutes. Yet anyone who arrives for the first time from the valley and sees the 14 medieval towers outlined against the Tuscan sky understands immediately why this city is visited by millions of people every year.
San Gimignano: the Manhattan of the Middle Ages
The nickname is exaggerated but effective. In the Middle Ages, the noble families of San Gimignano competed by building ever taller towers - whoever had the tallest tower had more prestige, more defence, more visibility. The city once had over 70; today 14 remain, some reaching 54 metres.
The result is a medieval skyline without equal in Italy. Seen from the outside, especially from the road climbing from Poggibonsi, San Gimignano looks like an invented place - a medieval movie set that is, however, real, made of sandstone and brick.
The city has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1990.
Anyone who arrives from the valley and sees the 14 medieval towers outlined against the Tuscan sky understands immediately why San Gimignano is visited by millions every year. It is one of those scenes you never forget.
The towers: how many remain and why they existed
The 14 surviving towers are the most recognisable visual element of San Gimignano, but their history is less romantic than it appears. They were not defensive towers in the military sense: they were symbols of family status, wealth and power.
Building a tower required enormous resources. Height was proportional to family wealth. In the 13th century, the city had about 13,000 inhabitants and over 70 towers - a density of vertical construction unparalleled in Europe.
The Torre Grossa, at 54 metres, is the tallest of those remaining and is municipal property. You can climb it - it offers one of the finest views over the Tuscan countryside and the urban fabric below - but the staircases are steep and numbers are limited.
The Duomo of San Gimignano: frescoes not to miss
The Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta, the Duomo of San Gimignano, is one of the most fresco-rich churches in Tuscany. The exterior is almost excessively sober; the interior explodes with medieval painting.
The side walls are covered by narrative cycles of the Old and New Testament, created by Sienese and Florentine artists between the 14th and 15th centuries. The Old Testament cycle on the left wall is attributed to Bartolo di Fredi (1367). The Life of Christ cycle on the right wall is by Barna da Siena.
The Chapel of Santa Fina, in the right nave, preserves frescoes by Ghirlandaio (1475) depicting the life of the local saint: they are among his most delicate works.
Admission to the Collegiata is charged (about €5), but it is worth every cent.
The Vernaccia: the city’s white wine
The Vernaccia di San Gimignano was the first Italian wine to receive DOC status, in 1966. It is a dry white wine, produced from vernaccia grapes grown on the hills surrounding the city.
It has a distinct character: golden, with mineral notes, a certain structure that makes it different from other Tuscan whites (often lighter). It pairs well with local dishes, particularly with prosciutto di cinta senese, cured meats and pecorino.
The wine shops of San Gimignano offer tastings for all levels: from quick counter samples to structured tours in the wineries. Some wineries are outside the city, in the surrounding countryside, and offer visits by appointment.
Sergio Dondoli’s gelato: the story of a world champion
Among the most improbable things you can find in a 13th-century medieval village is Gelateria Dondoli, in Piazza della Cisterna. Sergio Dondoli has been world champion of artisan gelato-making multiple times, and his gelato is the object of gastronomic pilgrimages from across Europe.
The flavours are original - vernaccia and saffron, crema di Santa Fina, champelmo - and the quality is indisputably high. The queue outside the gelateria is part of the experience.
It is not cheap, but it is one of those places where you eat something truly memorable.
When to go: how to avoid the crowds
San Gimignano is one of the most crowded destinations in Tuscany. In July and August, the historic centre becomes an almost impenetrable mass of tourists. The visit becomes nearly pleasant only in the first hours of the morning.
The best times:
- November-February: the city is almost empty; the low winter light gives the towers a different character
- March-April: beautiful landscape, moderate crowds
- October: the Vernaccia grape harvest is underway; the town is lively but not congested
In summer, a visit in the very early morning - by 9am - or in the late evening, once the tourist coaches have left, is recommended.
How to get there from Poggibonsi: 12 km in 15 minutes
From Hotel Alcide in Poggibonsi, San Gimignano is literally around the corner: 12 kilometres, 15 minutes by car. The panoramic road that climbs towards San Gimignano passes through Vernaccia vineyards and perfect Tuscan hillscapes.
By car: take the SS68 from Poggibonsi towards Colle Val d’Elsa, then turn off for San Gimignano. Parking is outside the walls - the entire centre is ZTL - but it is easy to find and at reasonable rates.
By bus: from Poggibonsi station, Tiemme buses run to San Gimignano with good frequency. The bus is useful for those who do not want to worry about parking.
Planning a trip to Tuscany?
Hotel Alcide is in Poggibonsi, in the heart of the Val d’Elsa.
25 km from Siena, 12 from San Gimignano, in the heart of Chianti.
The Ancillotti family has welcomed guests here since 1849.
