The Palio di Siena lasts 90 seconds. Ninety seconds in which ten horses circle Piazza del Campo three times, amid the roar of the crowd, the colours of the contrade, and centuries of rivalry exploding in a single moment.
Those who do not understand the Palio see a horse race. Those who understand it know it is something much more.
The Palio di Siena lasts 90 seconds. But those 90 seconds are the culmination of months of politics, alliances, betrayals and rivalries between contrade that are passed down from generation to generation. It is not sport: it is a war.
The Palio: not a race, it is a war
Calling it a “race” is almost offensive to a Sienese. The Palio is not a sporting competition: it is the culminating moment of months of politics, alliances, betrayals, negotiations between contrade.
Before the race, the contrade make deals: they wage war with all the weapons of diplomacy. The jockey of a rival contrada is bribed, underground agreements are paid, alliances are built to make the enemy lose. The word “enemy” - contrada nemica - is not metaphorical: it is a real rivalry, handed down from generation to generation, including grievances that date back centuries.
The horse can win even without a jockey (called “scosso”) - if it crosses the finishing line first with the saddle, it wins even alone. The jockey can be unseated, can fall. What matters is the horse arriving.
The 17 contrade: history and rivalries
Siena is divided into 17 contrade, each with its own animal or heraldic symbol: Aquila (Eagle), Bruco (Caterpillar), Chiocciola (Snail), Civetta (Owl), Drago (Dragon), Giraffa (Giraffe), Istrice (Porcupine), Leocorno (Unicorn), Lupa (She-wolf), Nicchio (Shell), Oca (Goose), Onda (Wave), Pantera (Panther), Selva (Forest), Tartuca (Tortoise), Torre (Tower), Valdimontone (Ram).
Every contradaiolo is born into their contrada - it is not chosen - and belongs to it for life. Baptism in the contrada’s fountain is a real ceremony. The bond is one of identity, of birth record, visceral.
The alliances and rivalries between contrade are fixed and ancient. The Oca and the Torre are historic enemies. The Aquila and the Nicchio are allies. These relationships condition Palio politics every year.
Only 10 of the 17 contrade run in each Palio. Seven are excluded on rotation - those that have already run in the previous two Palii. The system ensures that all contrade have equal opportunities over time.
The two races: July and August
The Palio di Siena is run twice a year:
2 July, Palio di Provenzano: dedicated to the Madonna di Provenzano. The fixed date is 2 July.
16 August, Palio dell’Assunta: dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin. The fixed date is 16 August.
In both cases, the actual race is on the Sunday, but the trials - three in the morning and one in the late afternoon the day before - are already spectacular and less crowded by tourists.
How to get a spot in Piazza del Campo
The space in the square is free and open: you can enter without a ticket. The problem is that you need to arrive very early.
For the July Palio (an evening race), you need to be in the square by 2-3pm to have a decent spot. You stand, in the sun, for hours. You cannot move, there are no easily accessible toilets. It is a physically intense experience, not without discomfort.
The paid alternatives are seats at windows and balconies of the palaces overlooking the square. Prices vary from a few hundred to several thousand euros per seat, depending on position. They are booked months in advance. Some local organisations manage the sale of balcony seats.
Seeing the Palio without standing in the square: the alternatives
For those who do not want to stand in the square for hours, there are some alternatives to still experience the atmosphere of the Palio:
The trials: the trials in the days beforehand are open to the public and are often almost empty. You can watch the horses circle the square with a fraction of the official race’s audience.
Contrada dinners: every contrada organises dinners the evening before the Palio, in the streets of the neighbourhood. It is not easy to attend without knowing someone local, but some contrade sell places to visitors too. The atmosphere is the genuine Palio atmosphere, not the tourist one.
Big screens: at some points in the city, screens are set up to follow the race. Less immersive, but more comfortable.
From Poggibonsi by car: those staying in Poggibonsi can reach Siena in 30 minutes, follow the afternoon trials, and return before the evening becomes too chaotic.
How to get there from Poggibonsi for the Palio
On Palio days, Siena is practically inaccessible by car. Car parks fill up hours before the race, and the roads approaching the centre are blocked.
The most practical options:
- Train: the Poggibonsi-San Gimignano station has frequent trains to Siena. Get off at Siena station and walk or take a local bus.
- Tiemme regional buses: direct connection Poggibonsi-Siena
- Car + park outside the city: park in the Siena Nord area and take the shuttle buses provided for the Palio
Hotel Alcide during the Palio: availability and tips
On Palio days (2 July and 16 August), hotel availability in Siena is exhausted months in advance. Hotel Alcide in Poggibonsi offers a convenient solution: stay 25 km from Siena, reach the city for the trials or the race, and return in the evening.
Since 1849, the Ancillotti family has known the Palio, and understands that for visitors coming from outside, a base in Poggibonsi is often the most practical choice.
Planning a trip to Tuscany?
Hotel Alcide is in Poggibonsi, in the heart of the Val d’Elsa.
25 km from Siena, 12 from San Gimignano, in the heart of Chianti.
The Ancillotti family has welcomed guests here since 1849.
