There is a place in the heart of Chianti where wine and history are almost physically intertwined: Castello di Brolio. It is not the largest or the oldest castle in Tuscany, but it is the one that changed Italian wine more than any other.
Bettino Ricasoli was not just a wine producer: he was the iron baron, the second Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Italy. His Chianti formula of 1872 is still the basis of the Chianti Classico production regulations today.
The Ricasoli family and the invention of modern Chianti
Bettino Ricasoli, second Baron of Brolio, was the figure who in the 19th century defined the Chianti formula as we know it: a blend of Sangiovese with small additions of Canaiolo and Malvasia, in precise proportions.
Ricasoli was not only a wine producer: he was also the second Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Italy, after Cavour. A man of great discipline and seriousness - contemporaries called him “the iron baron” - he brought the same systematic approach to work in the vineyard. He wanted to understand how the best wine was produced on those hills and conducted years of experiments to find the formula.
The Ricasoli formula of 1872 became the basis for the Chianti Classico production regulations that still govern the wine today, with the adjustments that decades and evolving tastes have brought.
Castello di Brolio: history and architecture
The castle stands on a hill at about 490 metres of altitude, in the municipality of Gaiole in Chianti. The walls, with their corner towers, date back to the 11th century, but the castle was rebuilt several times over the centuries - by the Ricasolis, in the 19th century, in neo-medieval forms.
The structure you see today is predominantly 19th-century: the castle is a private residence of the Ricasoli family, not a monument open to the public in all its parts. The gardens, the park and the winery can be visited by appointment.
The exterior, with its crenellated towers rising above the vineyards, is one of the most recognisable views in Chianti.
Barone Ricasoli winery: how to book a visit
The Barone Ricasoli Winery, the oldest winery in Italy (founded in 1141 according to documentation), offers tastings with visits to the historic cellars and vineyards.
The standard visit includes a tour of the winery (barrique room, barrel room, bottling area) and a tasting of 3-5 wines. Premium options include Riserva and Gran Selezione paired with local gastronomic products.
Tastings are booked online through the winery’s website or by phone. Prices start at approximately €20 per person for the basic tasting. Duration is about 1.5-2 hours.
The castle garden: Bettino Ricasoli’s rose gardens
The garden of Castello di Brolio is one of the least known but most interesting aspects of the visit. Bettino Ricasoli was a passionate horticulturist and personally designed the castle gardens, with rare rose varieties, aromatic plants and fruit trees of selected species.
The Italian-style garden, with its geometries and terraces, opens onto remarkable views - towards Castello di Monteriggioni to the north, towards the Maremma and Monte Amiata to the south on clearer days.
The garden visit is included in the standard tour.
How to get there from Poggibonsi
Castello di Brolio is about 40 kilometres from Poggibonsi. The most direct route is:
- SS222 from Castellina towards Radda in Chianti
- From Radda, descend towards Gaiole in Chianti
- From Gaiole, follow signs for Castello di Brolio (7 km south-east)
The journey takes about 50 minutes to 1 hour. The final road to the castle is unpaved for a stretch - passable by any car, but best to go slowly.
Parking is free and ample.
Combining Brolio with Gaiole in Chianti
Gaiole in Chianti, 7 kilometres from the castle, is a quiet small village with a few restaurants and trattorias. Combining a visit to Castello di Brolio with lunch or dinner in Gaiole is a pleasant option.
Gaiole is also the starting point for the Eroica, the historic cycling gran fondo held in October on Chianti white gravel roads that attracts thousands of cyclists in vintage costume from all over the world.
Planning a trip to Tuscany?
Hotel Alcide is in Poggibonsi, in the heart of the Val d’Elsa.
25 km from Siena, 12 from San Gimignano, in the heart of Chianti.
The Ancillotti family has welcomed guests here since 1849.
